Ye olde towne of York
view from the River Ouse on 35mm film
In early October we took a weekend trip to York, which was enjoyable but more than anything about the city itself, was host to a short conversation with a private tour guide and helped to synthesise and solidify some of the liquid (even gaseous, I might say) ideas I had in my head about the exerpience living in England.
First York and then perhaps another post to comments on the state changes of matter in my mind if I am at all able to get them into words.
If I had to describe York in one word
Persistence
If we as humans, as cities or as civilisations could learn anything from a York, this would be the lesson. York has existed - persisted, in many shapes, forms, and names under the influence of a multitude of cultures and leaders throughout millennia.
another view from the river Ouse on 35mm film
An Abridged History
The city itself was founded in 71 AD by the Romans who conquered the tribal town of the Brigantes. Archaeological evidence points to inhabitants as far back as 8000 BC. Roman walls line the city though they have been altered since in both height and points of access to allow flow of more modern traffic.
York declined along with the fall of the Roman Empire and was settled by a Germanic group, the Angles, in the late 5th century. The 7th century brings the rule of King Edwin of Northumbria (an early-medieval Anglo-Saxon Kingdom) and then in 866, while the Northumbrians are facing some internal struggles, the Vikings sailed over and captured the city.
The Vikings establish the town of Jorvik, which they make the capital of their territory in Britain. It becomes the second largest city in Britain, behind London, and home to more than 10,000 people. The Viking people left behind many artefacts, including coinage, home wares, and well many of their dead.
This became and important economic and trade centre, so of course, to honour this, the modern York people have constructed a modern shopping centre! Ok it likely wasn’t to honour the ancient trading post but to meet modern consumer demands… BUT when they tried to expand below and build a parking garage below the Coppergate shopping centre in the last century, they had to stop the construction as they unearthed a wealth of history from the viking people. You can now see these findings in the Jorvik Viking Centre. You will also need to find somewhere else to park.
In 1068 York sees the Norman Conquest (Norman, Breton, Flemish and French troops) and then finally a strong of rule from the Brittons themselves. In the past ~1000 years the cities has ebbed and flowed with different influences of the rulers of the United Kingdom, challenges with religion, and preeminence as a trading city and therefore economic prosperity.
The railway was brought to York in 1839 which established a culture of engineering in the city and in the 20th century became an area of conservation as its historic core has generated much tourism.
Fairly Modern York
York Minster, completed in 1472 after centuries of construction. The Great East Window has the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world. York Minster has ongoing stone masonry apprenticeships so that they have trained stone masons who can care for the continued maintenance of the building - read more here.
Clifford’s Tower, keep of the York Castle built in 1068 after the Norman conquest. The rounded shape, best observed from an aerial view, is distinctively French.
A perfectly autumnal tree in a beautiful courtyard York St. John University. Our guide said tuition for “foreigners” is £27K a year and only £9K for residents. So perhaps we stay 5 years, apply for residency and then I come study archaeology. Our tour guide’s daughter grew up in the US and said they found university in Britain extremely challenging as the last two years of school the Brits had been focused on the specific areas of their university study, whereas the Americans were rounding out their generalist high school education.
Another perfectly autumnal tree peaking out from behind a building near the university
An inside view of the Multangular tower, the lower parts of the walls dating back to the Roman period in the early third century. In the shadow you will see several Roman tombs. These were not originally placed here but essentially tossed to the side on one of Queen Victoria’s visits. She apparently was a bit of a “progressive” and did not show extreme care for the ancient Roman artefacts. and architecture These tombs are evidence. Additionally, she did also break down some of the ancient walls to make them shorter and to create more openings to allow for modern (at the time) traffic to pass at multiple points along the city walls.
Strangers, though not to each other, sitting at the Yorkshire museum, enjoying the accompanying gardens. I really do enjoy taking pictures of couples and individuals sitting on benches. Perhaps another collection I shall eventually compile.
St. Mary’s Abbey was really beautiful, and we see only a portion of what once existed. Built in the early 11th century, what remains is just shy of one thousand years old. How incredible. It was valued at £2,000 (~£1.5M presently) in year 1539 when it was assessed as part of the Dissolution of the Monasteries under King Henry VIII. History is rife with blood and stone and ego and religion.
Upon closer inspection of St. Mary’s Abbey
More perfect autumnal trees along the ancient Roman wall
This is a view captured walking atop a portion of the Roman wall available to pedestrians. I stood here for probably 10 minutes alone just watching. It was the most peaceful I had felt in a long time. The white shepherd sitting atop the steps at the back door had much influence on my lingering. I wanted it to move, to run, to.. something. But it sat, as it had every right to do. It was a beautiful site, and turns out to be a hotel, so next time maybe I will go in.
This lovely site is part of a building called The Hospitium near the river Ouse where the photos at the top of this post were taken. This was part of the abbey and provided a place for guests to house - those who were not allowed to stay in the main abbey with the monks.
And just as we were on the Cotswolds the week before, upon wandering the streets, breathing the cool fall air, I asked myself, could we live here?
